Basic Soldering For Electronics Pace Handbook For The Recently Deceased
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My introduction to electronic manufacturing was as a production technician at Pennsylvania Scale Company in Leola PA in the early 1980’s. I learned that to work on what I wanted to work on I had to get my assigned duties done by noon or thereabouts. The most important lesson I had learned as a TV repairman, other than not to chew on the high voltage cable, was to use your eyes first.
I would take a box of bad PCB’s that were essentially 6502 based computers that could count and weigh, and first go through inspecting them; usually the contents were reduced 50% right off by doing this. Then it was a race to identify and fix the remaining units and to keep my pace up I had to. Desoldering with IR System It worked like this; you could set units aside with instructions and the production people would at some point go through changing components etc. For you or you could desolder yourself. I was pretty good at hand de-soldering 28 and 40 pin chips using a venerable Soldapulit manual solder sucker (as they were known).
But to really cook I would wait for a moment when the production de-soldering machine was available. There was one simple rule for using the desoldering station: clean it when done! Failure to do so would result in your access to the station being suspended and then you might also incur the “wrath of production” which was not limited to your lunch bag being found frozen solid or your chair soaked in defluxing chemicals. One thing was that I could never afford was an automatic de-soldering station until now. I have found that there is a wide assortment of stations available from overseas and through eBay that mimic their production quality brethren and I demonstrate here a vacuum based desoldering station, an Infrared Heat based station, and some other tools such as hot air and desoldering tweezers. Vacuum Desoldering Automatic Desoldering Station utilizes a vacuum to remove solder.
The vacuum based through-hole desoldering station consisted of a soldering iron with a hollow tip and body which leads to a glass tube capped by a filer at one end which is also the end the vacuum is applied to. The trick is to heat up the whole solder joint (I use an ample amount of flux to assist) and then start the vacuum by pulling the trigger. During this time I am also wiggling the soldering iron tip in order to break the component pin free from the wall of the hole or plate-through.
Done correctly both the PCB and the component being removed are reusable. Infrared Desoldering The infrared based system, referred to as an Infrared Welder by the manufacturer, can ultimately heat a smaller area to a hotter temperature than hot air, or so I believe. To mask off the surrounding area for hot air you need to keep your airflow low and redirect it away from the rest of the PCB. To redirect Infrared you use the reflective properties of aluminum foil. It’s then mostly a matter of firing up the fume fan and having the patience to wait for the direct heat to do the job. Again a judicious use of flux helps.
IR Desolder System for removing larger SMD Hot Air Desoldering Hot Air is similar in that flux helps, fumes and smoke may be present and you have to have the patience to wait for the part to come fully loose — half loose doesn’t cut it. To this end I recommend a hot air holder, a fume fan and an egg timer. If you don’t have an egg timer I am sure there is an app for that somewhere. Desoldering SMT with Chip Quik Desoldering with Chip Quik and an iron I have found The quickest way to desolder SMT without investing in any of this equipment is to use a product like which lowers the melting point of the solder metal when mixed with it as it allows a soldering iron to melt the entire chip’s footprint simultaneously allowing it to be removed. Solder Sucker, Solder Wick, Chip Quik Desoldering Tweezers Finally the tweezers. You don’t need these I certainly didn’t.
But what the heck, there is a certain cleanliness of motion that when removing a part with two pins to use what essentially is two soldering irons. Oh yeah lots of flux first. Desoldering Tweezers Back to the story: Four years later I had worked my way up to being one of the lead design engineers at the best home computer company of its day. We had hard deadlines like the CES show in Las Vegas which would inevitably occur while we still had 3% of the product to finish.
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It’s a safe bet that being able to de-solder quickly and more importantly without damaging prototype chips and boards that were irreplaceable, was an indispensable skill at 2:00AM when any technician in their right mind would be home in bed instead of pulling chips for the engineer whose bed was an air mattress in his office. We never missed a CES.
Posted in, Tagged, Post navigation. The biggest mistake I see rookies make when they are desoldering is they act like there is some kind of prize awarded if they can manage to take burnt out components out whole, and intact. That stuff is garbage! Once you get a bad part off a board you are only going to throw it out anyways. So who cares how good it looks in the trash can? What I was taught to do was to cut the parts out manually, with clippers, then desolder every lead individually.
Only having to deal with a single lead at a time makes things a lot simpler. Component salvage is one thing, board re-work is something completely different. In each the value of different items is reversed.
One’s methods should reflect that accordingly. That is what my old beater soldering iron essentially does.
I just nuke it from outer space with the tip of that badboy and pull the whole melted blob off leaving clean pads ready for anything. It is probably a bit more shoot from the hip than this crowd would like, but as long as you know how your iron works and have a steady hand you can do the same. I wouldn’t recommend my method for expensive things but those projects tend to be for clients instead of me just getting something going again. Fingernail clippers are always a handy tool to have on the bench as well for snipping leads and snipping smd resistors off of boards;) While we are here, I’ll just go ahead and say how much I dislike soldering braid.
Almost rather use rogue bits of wire than the real deal. I am sure others have great success with it but it just frustrates me more than anything. Same with flux; I never use the stuff but that is because it is gross and I have just never needed it really.
Ticks me off when I go to desolder some old school thing and the board is pretty much iced with it so that you have to cook a layer off. I understand it was part of the process back then but it just sucks to deal with now. Usually makes me nauseous and surly lol. Best of luck to all of us snagging parts and keeping things out of the landfill:). Same thing with pth, even worse since the pins are bigger around and therefore grow more when snipped.
Here’s a good example of a pth land that has dislocated from its trace due to applied force: Note that the break is tiny, even hard to see under SEM. The pad isn’t even visually lifted, but its enough. As a hobbyist, working with SMT is so much less time consuming and lets you spend a lot less money. For instance, each time I get a new resistor value, I spend a couple bucks and get a thousand of them. The boards end up being smaller so lower cost there too. Guess it’s time to invest in a mic stand, and learn to sing to justify the purchase.;) I’ll admit, I’ve come up with an altogether more gruesome way to remove components from a PCB. It’s a way to remove the PCB from the component, actually.
– On a Saturday I wanted some discrete power components off a CRT TV’s PCB, and lacking patience I went for a pair of pliers and started to break off pieces of the PCB. The components came loose and then I could just heat up the legs one by one to clean them. Since I held on to the components with my fingers I could not heat them up so much that there was any chance of damage. I recognize that we’re talking about the opposite problem here. – I’m only recently getting back into electronics and I find it fun, liberating to have a completely disposable selection of random components, so I don’t feel like I’m wasting resources by letting them be consumed in cruel and unusual experiments. I leave components with bits of PCB stuck to their legs and just archived them by basic type so they don’t take up much space until the time I might find a use for them. I think of this as a resource similar to manufacturer samples, but faster and entirely more Discordian.
MANY moons ago I was working for one of the national labs-the Advanced Photon Source near Chicago. Think of it as a “Mini Fermilab” accelerator designed to produce x and gamma rays. It contained several thousand DC and ramped DC (Triangle-wave output) power supplies from about 100 watts to well into the the megawatt range-so we fixed a lot of power supplies!
They brought in a group to teach all of us professional PCB repair techniques (as well as IPC repair/inspection standards). All of the workstations in the mobile home (ten in all) had CAL rework stations. These were cool because they used induction heating of the tip and were at temp and ready to use in seconds-no matter the size of the tip. And yes, ever since then my kit always included several sizes of solder and wick, a bottle of flux and Chip Quick. The only time I have ever seen braid be useful is for doing foil clean up after a part is removed.
Other than that braid is so spotty for me I tend to not consider using it today. Braid is perishable too.
Andrew Bunnie Huang
There is chemical on the braid that does not always last forever. Something on braid that can kind of not be so good with old stock. Plus there is a lot of technique when it comes to using braid effectively, like clipping it at an angle. There is a lot of technique with using braid I suppose.
For foil clean up I think braid is great though. For sucking solder out to remove components, not so much. I’ve seen it do that, but not enough to count on it. on braid taking off pads Another thing missing in the video is TEMPERATURES.
Not a peep (or did I miss it?) about proper temperatures for solder type or chips and pcb safety. Too much temp and pads will vanish/stick to soldering iron. Using PBfree temps for PB GPU/Chipset bga and you will destroy it (it will bridge inside). Too little temp and you will rip pads off.
Heating for too long and you will cook something. Heating too quickly and you will crack something.
Heating one side of multilayer pcb and you will warp it. Patience also helps, couldnt watch that braid part, Bill almost cleaned few passives off.
Computer Security
Trust me – its not fun hunting for a photo of a similar pcb to figure out what got ‘disappeared’ by accident during repair:/ Posts asking for a macro picture of a part of pcb for that very reason are the norm on service forums. This ‘I had to solder over 3 video cameras and couldnt see clearly’ is a standard dog ate my homework excuse, Dave Jones uses same one every single time:D You are trying to show something – either show it properly, or dont show it. There is no point showing something bad or sloppy. Its like a car instructor smashing into few traffic cones and saying ‘oh, but It was just a quick demonstration, trust me I know how to do it properly, its your turn now’. How is anyone supposed to learn anything from that? Again, I highly recommend you want some of the clips from this channel Difference is they are really fixing something and video is just an addition. Their biggest concern is following correct procedures, not operating video equipment.
Massachusetts Institute Of Technology
Its not like you are on some time/words limit.